Wood Care and Maintenance
We’re woodworkers so naturally we’re going to be making things from solid wood. Each piece is different. It’s unique. We love it.
Wood is alive; it breathes with the changes in humidity - it moves. Its colour changes with exposure to light. It gets dirty. It needs protecting.
We deliberately use natural finishes because we believe they are better - they look and feel better and last longer.
Easy regular care will maintain the finish and as each layer is correctly applied and polished, the surface will continue to improve.
The result is a surface that gets better with age and reveals a patina that is only achievable through a life of use and care.
The natural finishes we use are microporous and allow the wood to breath but will not allow moisture through if used and maintained properly. The finish not only emphasises the woods natural beauty, it makes the surface durable, hard wearing and resistant to staining.
Day to day care:
Cleaning:
Usually a warm damp cloth is all that is required for frequent cleaning but for more thorough cleaning, use a special plant oil based soap cleaner - we have these for sale in the store. They are especially mild on the skin, biodegradable and keep the surface food safe.
Harsh chemicals are designed to break down oils and waxes so these aren’t ideal for cleaning finishes made from oil and wax, unless of course you’re trying to remove them. For the same reasons don’t leave your hand soap dispenser on the finished surface.
Also avoid using baking soda, ammonia, bleach, solvents and scourers.
Spills:
Mop up spills straight away so liquids aren’t left to stand on surfaces for prolonged periods. The hardwax oil finishes we use are resistant to staining but are not stain proof. Water left on surfaces for prolonged periods around sinks may leave a condensation mark but once dry will generally fade out. Same goes for condensation marks left by hot and cold drinks.
Heat:
Cups of your preferred hot beverage are fine but please don’t take your pots and pans off the stove top and place directly on the bench. It will burn and leave a mark.
Sunlight:
General filtered sunlight is fine for anything indoors or sufficiently under roof. Anything directly in the sun (outside) should always have an exterior rating and contain a pigment to protect from bleaching if you don’t want it to end up looking like driftwood.
Rejuvenation:
Especially in high traffic areas, your surfaces may become faded or dull and may need some form of rejuvenation. This is super easy and only takes minutes.
Make sure the surface is clean and dry and apply the original oil (ask us what we’ve used if you don’t already know) thinly with a clean cloth or white scotchbrite and buff off straight away with a clean white cloth. One coat should be sufficient. Leave to dry at least overnight.
If you have a stubborn stain, try using a white scotchbrite pad with a PH neutral cleaner (we sell this) to remove. Alternatively, a grey scotchbrite or 0000 grade steel wool could be used. Once the stain has been removed, apply a thin coat of the oil and buff the excess with a clean white cloth.
For areas which are scratched or badly worn, the surface will need sanding to remove the scratches, and another coat of the original oil applied. Ask us for more advice before doing this if you’re unsure.
